Exfoliation is a technique where the layer of mostly dead epidermal cells on the outer surface of the skin (a.k.a. stratum corneum) is removed to expose fresher mostly living cells. Potential benefits of exfoliation include fresher, brighter looking skin, better penetration of active ingredients of skin care products and, for people with excessively oily skin, a varying degree of reduction in oil secretion.
It is debatable whether exfoliation reduces file lines, but it generally does not improve significant wrinkles since its effects do not reach the dermis where wrinkles are formed.
Routine exfoliation should not be confused with deep chemical peels, laser peels and other semi-invasive wrinkle treatments methods. The idea of such methods is not to strip the dead cells from the epidermis (as routine exfoliation does) but to create controlled trauma to the dermis, the deeper layer responsible for structural integrity of the skin. The subsequent wound-healing response and skin remodeling help to wipe out some of the wrinkles. Procedures like deep chemical peels are aggressive treatments to be done infrequently by trained professionals. Their mechanism of action is different -- they are not simply intense versions of routine exfoliation.
Now that the terms are clear: Is routine exfoliation beneficial and who can benefit? The benefits of adding exfoliation to a skin care routine are not universal.
First, the skin undergoes continuous natural exfoliation anyway. If it weren't, the skin would be inches think because continuously produced new epidermal cells (keratinocytes) would accumulate. Epidermal cell turnover and the resulting natural exfoliation are more rapid at a young age. Therefore, young people generally do not benefit from exfoliation and are more likely to suffer its side effects. Even some people in their 30-s and 40-s have naturally high cell turnover and may not benefit from routine exfoliation. On the other hand, many people over thirty develop dull, lifeless looking skin because their stratum corneum (topmost layer consisting of dead cells) becomes too thick. This group is likely to benefit from routine exfoliation. Since exfoliation sometimes reduces the production of skin oil (sebum) people with excessively oily skin may benefit too, especially if they exfoliate with beta and/or alpha hydroxy acids. On the other hand, exfoliation may cause further irritation in people with dry and/or sensitive skin, who should either refrain from exfoliation or use mild exfoliants infrequently.
If you decided that exfoliation should be a regular element of your skin care routine, how often should you do it?
Except for people with extremely oily skin, daily exfoliation is not a good idea. You goal is to remove the dead cells from the skin surface. It takes at least a few days for a size able amount of dead cells to accumulate. If you exfoliate more often than that, you may be removing too many living cell, increasing the chance of irritation and skin damage.
For most people who decide to exfoliate, once or twice a week is sufficient. You should determine optimal frequency based on your skin type, strength of the exfoliants you use, application technique and other factors. If you develop irritation, increased sensitivity or dryness, you are probably exfoliating too much.
Popular exfoliation methods include alpha and beta hydroxy acids, enzyme peels, microdermabrasion and others. Some may have collateral benefits. For example, alpha-hydroxy acids (especially glycolic and lactic) seem to have additional skin benefits independently of their exfoliating effect, such as improvement of dermal matrix. Beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, are particularly effective in reducing excess oil production and may be a good fit for oily, acne-prone skin. On the other hand, chronic irritation and skin damage from overuse of acidic exfoliants is a known dermatological entity and may contribute to skin aging. Be prudent: listen to your skin, use common sense and inform yourself before trying anything new.
Skin care is an art in itself and this art can be learned by anyone. All you need is a proper guidance and proper understanding of the basic skin care tips. We have tried to throw some light on the finer points of basic skin care.
First step is to determine your skin type.
There are no magic potions that can make your spots and pimples disappear overnight. There is no elixir of youth that can turn back the hands of the clock and give you back the firm, unlined skin of your youth. But there is a way by which you can rejuvenate your skin and bring it back to good health.
Dermatologists, cosmetologists and beauty therapists all agree on the fact that taking regular care of skin is the only way of avoiding problems and delaying the ageing process. So cleanse, tone, moisturize and nourish your skin everyday. Within a week you will be amazed to see the results. The skin has tremendous powers of self-regeneration when properly cared for and it is never too late to start.
Cleansing
Whatever the texture or type of your skin, it requires thorough cleansing. If we could have a look at uncleaned skin through a magnifying glass, we would realise the absolute necessity of a proper cleansing routine. Before it is cleansed, the skin surface is covered by a film of dirt, stale sweat, oil deposits, stale make-up and other pollutants. All these are potent skin irritants. They not only upset the normal balance of the skin, but also hamper its natural functions.
Cleanse your skin, according to your skin type. Splash your face with water then massage with a gentle facial wash and work it up to a lather for about 30 seconds. Take the opportunity to lightly massage your skin, as this will boost the supply of blood to the surface of your skin - which means a rosier complexion. Rinse away with clear water until every soapy trace has been removed from your skin. Then pat your skin with a soft towel to absorb residual water from the surface of your skin.
Toning
Toning is necessary for all skin types. It follows immediately after cleansing and helps to refresh the skin. A good way of toning the skin is to keep cotton wool pads soaking in a bowl of skin tonic in the refrigerator. After cleansing the skin, wipe with the skin toning pads and then pad the skin briskly. This stimulates the blood circulation to the surface. Gentle stroking movements can also be followed.
Moisturizing
The most important part of the skin care routine is moisturizing. Smooth your skin with moisturizing lotions. Dot onto your face, then massage in with your fingertips with light upwards strokes. This will leave a protective film on the skin, allowing make-up to be easily applied and ensuring there is a balanced moisture content.
Nourishing
Nourishing is a way of supplying emollients to the skin so that it can hold moisture better and performs its other functions. Use the nourishment cream with Vitamin A, which is of utmost importance to the skin helping to relieve dryness and maintain skin elasticity and the nourishing cream with Vitamin E (anti-oxidant) which helps in minimizing cross linking damage.
Tips for skin care
Never rub your cheeks against anything nor let them be pressed or pinched.
Never try to pluck out your pimples. If you do so they will leave an ugly mark on the skin.
Try to be always happy and cheerful. In fact it is medically advisable to laugh daily for about 10 minutes not only for your cheek's up-keep, but even for your normal health.
Don't use any artificial coloring material like rouge etc. to make your cheeks acquire rosy hue. The best way to do so is to mix a few fresh rose leaves in raw milk and crush them to a paste form. Then add a little honey to the paste and apply on your cheeks every morning for 5 minutes. Then rinse it off.
Masks are an ideal way of removing the dead cells on the outer layer of the skin. In fact, a mask performs many functions that improve the health and appearance of the skin. A good mask should improve skin texture, make it clearer and more translucent and also preserve its youthful qualities. Masks have a deep cleansing action on the skin, removing impurities, wastes and dead skin cells. They also keep the pores free of clogged oil and prevent many related problems.
The removal of dead cells helps to improve the skin's ability to absorb products, making moisturising much more effective. The skin's cell renewal function also improves.
The process of drying and hardening of many facial masks and their subsequent removal causes an expansion of the blood vessels in the skin, bringing an improvement in skin tone. Blood circulation to the skin surface also improves greatly, leaving the skin glowing and refreshed.
Masks should be chosen according to individual requirements. There are many kinds of masks, depending on the functions they have to perform.
How to make facial mask?
Masks are a really good way to pep up skin, in no time at all. Cleansing masks, which often contain clay or fruit, absorb excess oils. The enzymes in fruits such as papaya have a deep-cleansing action and leave the skin glowing.
Moisturizing masks give drier skin a real boost, smoothing our fine lines and refreshing the face. Some moisturizing masks also contain toning and firming ingredients, such as seaweed, herbs and aromatherapy oils and are excellent as complexion-improves before a party or after a late night.
Full cleansing face mask
Cleansing masks are better suited to oily and some combination skins. They are designed to draw out excess oil and pollutants from the surface. These are removed from the skin when the mask is washed off. Cleansing masks also help to unclog the pores and remove dead skin cells. Thus, they discourage the formation of blackheads, refine the pores and improve the texture of the skin. They should be specially formulated for cleansing and refining the skin and is ideally suited to oily skins. Cleansing mask improve skin texture and tighten the pores.
Surgical face mask
Medicated masks have been formulated for specific problems, like pimples, rash and other eruptions, as well as for skin sensitivity. It can also be used if there is acne, as it helps to soothe and heal the skin. It also creates a germicidal surface to control such conditions from spreading.
Homemade face mask
Home Ingredients for Masks
For dry skin: Mix half teaspoon honey with the yolk of an egg and one tablespoon dried milk powder. Mix into a paste and apply. Remove after 20 minutes with water.
For oily skins: Mix half teaspoon honey with egg white and one teaspoon lemon juice. Add fuller's earth or brewer's yeast powder. Mix into a paste and apply. Remove after 20 minutes with water.
For oily skin and enlarged pores: Add lemon juice and a little milk to oatmeal. Apply the paste and remove after 20 minutes with water. Do not use if there are eruptions.
For oily and combination skins: Mix one tablespoon yogurt with fuller's earth and apply. Yogurt itself can be applied on the face. It helps to soften the skin and restores the natural acid mantle.
For blackheads: Add the white of an egg to oatmeal and apply for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove with water, rubbing gently.
For sunburn: Add a little lemon juice to milk and apply with cotton wool. Mayonnaise can also be applied by itself. It helps to soothe sunburn.
For skin cleansing: Make a pulp of raw papaya and apply. Papaya has a cleansing action, softening dead skin cells and aiding their removal.
For all skin types: Grated cucumber can be applied all over the face. The juice is good for the skin around the eyes too. Helps to tighten the skin and has a cooling and refreshing effect.
